Pasta with creamy carrot miso sauce and carrot top gremolata

One of my frequent goals in cooking is to use up items before they expire or that are taking up space in my pantry, and this recipe accomplished both.  I had half a box of bowtie pasta and a few tablespoons of white miso paste, and this vegan recipe was a creative way to use up both and incorporate nuts and vegetables.  

For the gremolata, which is similar to a pesto, I blitzed the ingredients for longer than the recipe called for to improve the texture, making it less gritty.  The results packed a punch between the greens, lemon zest and juice, but also balanced out the creamy richness of the carrot miso sauce. For the sauce, I cut the water by 1/2 cup, making the sauce thicker so it would coat the pasta better.  Since I have been fermenting shallots and garlic, which uses salt in the process, and my cashews were salted, and miso is plenty of salty as well, I did not add even more salt to this dish.  

After cooking the pasta, I added a few serving spoonfuls of the sauce to coat it.  Finally, I added a few chopped cashews for some additional crunch.  The result was a creamy, zesty, nutty pasta and what I think was a successful spring dish that celebrates carrots, using all parts of this lovely vegetable.  🥕👍😋

Strawberry shortcake

One of my all-time favorite desserts from childhood is strawberry shortcake, but not with angel food or sponge cake.  Where I grew up we used biscuits with a hint of sugar, and I still prefer it texturally to the light cakes that get too soggy too quickly.  The Best Recipe still has my favorite take on this classic, but on the road I don’t have access to this gigantic cookbook, so I used Sally’s version instead.

While visiting Boone, North Carolina we were walking down their main street and happened upon a farmer selling strawberries.  They smelled so good that I couldn’t resist getting some, and they were a steal at $5 per quart.  Because newfound friends Mike and Carrie in Sylva, North Carolina had been ever so gracious, putting us up twice during our time in Asheville, I wanted to express our gratitude by baking this favorite of mine to share with them.  

This has never happened to me before…these strawberries were absolutely perfect.  None were under ripe or over ripe, so every berry in the bunch was used. 🍓😍 The macerated berries and whipped cream were easy, but baking biscuits in the trailer turned out to be tricky, especially on a hot day. I had to scrap the first batch because they turned into puddles, so I relied on the 3:2:1 ratios of flour, liquid, and butter for the second batch, kept everything cool, and worked quickly.

I cubed butter and stuck it in the freezer along with my sheet pans, while I prepped the dry ingredients.  Once the dry ingredients were in the food processor, I pulled the butter out of the freezer and incorporated it, then plopped the mixture in a wide bowl and added cold buttermilk from the refrigerator immediately.  Using a floured pastry cloth, I turned the loose mixture out and pressed it together with the cloth.  With my cookie cutter and a metal spatula handy, I put the biscuits on the cooled baking sheets and pushed them together in the center of the pan.  

Some of the biscuits were barely together, but that was ok as long as I got them into the oven before the butter got too warm.  I also brushed some heavy cream and sprinkled sugar on top to create a golden crust.  Because I had two batches, I stuck the second one in the freezer while the other batch was baking and increased the baking time by just 2 minutes (22 minutes instead of 20).  The biscuits turned out fabulous!

The results were a slightly sweet, but mostly refreshing spring/summer dessert that put me right back to my childhood memory of my mom making me a large, layered shortcake for my birthday.  It is still my favorite birthday cake I’ve ever had.  If you happen upon a bunch of fresh strawberries, this is a way to showcase those beautiful, juicy berries and share dessert with loved ones. 😍

Salmon with bean ragù

Beans and lentils are an important part of our diet, being high in folate, potassium, iron, magnesium and a great source of fiber.  As such, I thought I’d try this salmon and bean ragù recipe.  Using canned beans also means this meals can be done in less than 30 minutes.  I chose to use 3 oz of prosciutto instead of 2 oz, crisp it up in the pan ahead of time, and then save 1/3 of the crumbled results to garnish with at the end.  That little bit of crisp texture worked great in this dish.  I couldn’t find escarole either, so used a mixture of dark leafy greens instead.  We loved how this turned out and think you will too.

Chicken and freekeh with lemon feta relish

I have been trying to incorporate more whole grains into our diet, and it has been a long time since I tried freekeh, which is roasted cracked wheat.  The last time I tried freekeh, the dish seemed cloying, so I have been hesitant to try it again.  Whole Foods carries small bags of several different whole grains, so it wasn’t a huge commitment to buy a few and experiment. 

This dish from Food and Wine turned out better than expected.  I finished off our dried currents in place of the golden raisins, but left the rest of the recipe the same.  The freekeh took a lot longer to cook than the recipe indicated…more like 30-40 minutes, despite soaking the grain for an hour beforehand.  Otherwise, everything turned out great.  The feta lemon relish gave this dish the finishing zip that it needed to balance the sweet and smoky flavors of the freekeh and currants.  I loved it and will be making this again.

Cassoulet

You’d think a dish made up of meat, beans and bread crumbs wouldn’t be anything to write home about, but this one featured duck, one of my favorites, and soon became a go-to comfort food.  I’ll never forget the first time I had this classic Provincial French dish at the Ledford House.  That night will forever be solidified in my memory, so not only do I recommend the Ledford House, but trying this recipe.  The Ledford House is located on the cliffs of Albion in northern California, about 7 miles south of Mendocino.  They have delicious food, an excellent wine selection from vineyards down the road in the Anderson Valley, feature live Jazz music nightly, and breathtaking views of the ocean. 

Cassoulet can be as simple or as complex as you want it to be, from curing the meat 2 days ahead, then cooking the meats and soaking beans 1 day ahead, and then assembling everything on the final day.  Conversely, this simplified version of cassoulet can be done in a hour.  I didn’t want to waste a lot of propane cooking for hours, so I opted for the simpler version.  If you love duck like I do, I highly recommend incorporating that into this dish and allowing for any extra cooking time, but chicken thighs are also a tasty and a very forgiving meat that can easily stay juicy and tender.  I had a couple of Andouille sausages left over from another recipe that also worked well in this dish, and two cans of northern beans.  

The other ingredients are so simple, but really round out the flavors, including your aromatics (onion, garlic), thyme, tomato paste, and a little bit of white wine for deglazing the pot.  The white wine is essential in this dish as it adds depth that you simply cannot achieve without it.  Finally, the breadcrumbs on top are also important.  When you pull this out of the oven, having that bit of crunch in contrast with the soft, bubbling mess of meat and beans underneath is heavenly.  We made this on a stormy day in which a warm comfort food was just what was needed.  The next time you want something to warm you up on a cold day, give this recipe a chance. 

Though we did not see central Virginia, we did get to see parts of the western and northeastern borders.  From the Appalachian Mountains to the Atlantic Ocean, this state not only offers up a variety of landscapes, but also a depth of history like no other, being the first English colony and one of the original 13 colonies of the American Revolution.

I often talk about access to the outdoors, because it is near and dear to my heart, and an important quality of life factor that I pay close attention to everywhere I go.  Virginia is among the top 20 states for public land access, helped significantly by its Shenandoah National Park lands.  And, its next door neighbor Washington DC is ranked as the #1 city in the nation for park access, and is incredibly walkable.  Its National Mall is a great example of the public parklands available to enjoy.

Virginia also happens to be one of the US’s top 10 bike-friendly states.  We saw road cyclists and mountain bikers everywhere we went, and there were greenways in every town we visited, which makes biking safer for people of all ages.  Not to mention, it is right next door to DC, which has loads of biking infrastructure and is also among the top 10 bike-friendly cities in America.  Arlington also gets great bike and walk scores.  

Economically speaking, Virginia is great for many reasons.  The state as a whole offers a wide variety of jobs and employment industries, low unemployment rates, higher median household income, and thus lower poverty than a majority of US states.  It is also considered a small business-friendly state and has better income equality than the national average.  Forbes even ranked Virginia #1 for quality of life in 2019.  

Virginia’s education record is mixed. It is one of the top 10 most expensive places to obtain an education at a public university, on par with every state in the NE, except the more affordable states of West Virginia and Maine.  However, for Pre-K through high school education, Virginia is one of the Top 10 states in the country to live.  It also has one of the most educated populations in the US.  Anecdotally, of the 4 universities I visited on our journey, University of Virginia did have the highest tuition and fees, which definitely gave me pause, considering that the immediate area did not have a lot of job availability.  

If you like to experience all four seasons, Virginia is a great option.  The biggest natural disaster risks you should be aware of are tornadoes and hurricanes, depending on which part of the state you live in.  The climate has been trending toward higher temperatures, heavier rainfall and thus more flooding events, which is of greatest concern if you live in the coastal region.  Incidentally, we spoke with some residents of Charlottesville who grew up in the area, and they said they have seen more days above 90 degrees there in the last 5 years than ever before.  Conversely, one the most significant blizzards on record occurred in 2016, so the overall weather patterns are seemingly headed toward the extremes.

Straddling the north and the south, Virginia has a mixture of both, giving the state a sordid history and track record for civil rights.  However, since the 1970’s, Virginia has slowly been shifting from a largely conservative state to a more moderate state, with the most progressive voting record being just outside of Washington DC.  Virginia is not unlike most states in which the more populous areas and college towns tend to be the most liberal and the rural areas tend to be the most conservative, so that is the best guide for expectations if political affinity is important to you.  

We personally found the areas of Virginia we explored to be some of the most beautiful to see in the springtime, being lush and green with beautiful blooms and stunning views.  And, the roads were actually in great shape as well. Especially after heading into Pennsylvania, we started to miss the quality of roads very quickly. 😂 We noticed that the areas we visited were really clean, but sensed that several regions were also struggling economically, seeing more business and houses boarded up than other areas of the country.  

As always, I highly recommend visiting any place you are considering moving to, and gauging your personal comfort level compared to past experiences.  I hope this post and the previous four posts sharing our travels throughout the state give you a sense of what these regions of Virginia have to offer.  Like everywhere we have visited, places are never like you assume they will be and there are pluses and minuses that you simply cannot know until you go and see for yourself.  Come visit this beautiful state and see what I’m talking about.

Bull Run Campground

Some of our friends we met on the road highly recommended Bull Run Regional Park and campground, located just south of Centreville, about 45 minutes outside of DC.  We decided to stay for a 4-day weekend and visit the National Mall as neither of us had been before.  This 1500-acre park is HUGE!  They have several hiking and biking trails, picnic areas, a water park, disc golf, and 150 spacious sites for camping.  We chose one of their pull through sites, which worked fine for our brief stay.  It was great to have such a large, spacious place to stay so close to DC.  

However, you should know that there is a public shooting range next door, so you will hear shooting every day of the week except Monday and Tuesday.  Furthermore, most of the trails are very muddy.  There is a lot of boggy swampland here, so the trails get really messy.  That being said, we saw snails, mating millipedes, and even a coiled up rat snake on our hike along the Bull Run riverfront.   The park was clean from what we could see, but I did not investigate their bathroom facilities.  Definitely check out other reviews on Google or Campendium and decide for yourself whether this is the place for you. 

Day 1 in DC

The rain threatened to ruin our plans, but aside from a spate of misty weather, we didn’t have any issues and were in fact appreciative that it wasn’t too hot since we were outside for most of the day.  We started at the Lincoln Memorial and walked alongside the reflecting pool toward the Washington Monument.  We learned that construction of the Washington Monument halted for over two decades in part due to lack of funding.  When it resumed, they had to source marble from another quarry, so there is a visible difference about 150 feet from the base where the new stone continued upward.

We passed several museums that we decided to visit the next day, which had a higher chance of rain…a better time to spend indoors.  Soon, we approached the US Capitol building, which was setting up for an event, and was also getting a facelift on the west side.  Whether that was the result of annual maintenance, the events of January 6th or a combination thereof, I’m not sure.  We headed around to the east side and were surprised at just how close we could approach the Capitol given recent circumstances.  

By this time we were pretty famished, so Matt found a place called the Junction Bistro and Bar.   Our timing was impeccable!  Not a moment after we snagged a table and the whole place was filled to the brim with hungry people during the lunch rush.  I ordered a chicken sandwich with a side salad and Matt got a pork, rice and beans bowl.  Both were really flavorful. 😋 When I finished mine, I couldn’t resist savoring a few bites of Matt’s dish as well.

Afterward, we headed toward the US Supreme Court Building, which is currently barricaded off…likely due to planned marches on the Capitol and Supreme Court tomorrow regarding the controversial Roe vs. Wade draft opinion.  The march organizers were already setting up near the Lincoln Center.  We plan to be back tomorrow, so it will be interesting to be present during such a momentous occasion.

We decided to go to the National Gallery of Art (NGA) on the way back.  Matt had his pocket knife on him, which is NOT allowed in the building, and we had to stash it in a planter nearby so we could enter.  Once inside, we spent a few hours walking through rooms featuring paintings that included styles such as landscapes, still life, French and American impressionism, Avant-garde, and neoclassical, from the likes of Monet, Renoir, Gauguin, Van Gogh, Goya, Rousseau, Singer Sargent and many many more.  

The NGA was also exhibiting Afro-Atlantic works of art from the 17th century onward.  It was a bit ironic seeing art displaying the slave trade and cultural impacts across South, Central, and North America and the Caribbean juxtaposed with portraits of aristocrats or otherwise showing the more relaxed European lifestyles from the 1800’s.  Regardless, this museum holds more than we could see in one day, so we can come back again to explore other exhibits.

As we were finally getting back to the Lincoln Memorial we heard people shouting and clapping and soon realized we were witness to a marriage proposal in action! 😍 She said yes!  Our feet were pretty tired at this point, having walked nearly 10 miles, so this lightened our moods and was a great way to cap off our day.  Though we were very tired, it was a fulfilling day and was worth the effort to see these grandiose and historic buildings and the buzz of excitement among the many groups of people around us also visiting the capitol for the first time.

Day 2 in DC

If you plan to visit DC, expect the unexpected.  There are so many events planned in our state’s capitol, especially on the weekends, so there may be street closures, venue closures, etc.  Do your due diligence in advance and have an easy escape route.  We found easy street parking here near the Lincoln Memorial, that we could re-up later in the day through an app after the three hour time limit.  On the second day we chose to return to this parking spot with many streets already cordoned off for the upcoming march and large graduation ceremony for George Washington University the following day.

This time we chose to swing by the White House and then visit a few of the museums before heading back.  On our way, we walked through the Constitution Gardens, one of many walking or biking routes you can take at the National Mall.  Most of the streets surrounding the White House are closed, so the best way to view it is on the north side from H St NW near the Lafayette Square.  You’ll know you’re in the right place if you see a crowd of people hanging out at the barricades.  The security presence here is significant.  In fact, we saw heavy security all over the place in our two days walking around near the National Mall.  

Afterward, we headed toward the National Museum of American History.  Like the other museums, this one is also gigantic.  And did I mention that all of these museums in DC are free?  This museum covers a lot of ground, including the history of our democracy, voting rights, free speech, the presidency, immigration, American inventions, and so much more.  We walked around for about an hour before we started to get hungry and needed to find some lunch.  Although they do have a cafeteria, a large group of people had descended upon it right before us, so we left to find food elsewhere.

Next up we went to the National Museum of Natural History.  There is also so much to see here, covering everything from geology, gems, minerals and fossils, to marine life, a hall of mammals, insects, human origins, and so much more.  We spent most of our time in the sections showing marine life, fossils, human origins and briefly walked through the hall of mammals.  By this time, our backs were screaming at us, having walked around on concrete for a few days now, so we had to call uncle and start heading back.

As we were heading back, the Ban Off Our Bodies march was in full swing, coming up Constitution Avenue.  I have never witnessed a march in person before…I am claustrophobic in large crowds and get tremendous anxiety, especially in the day and age of covid. 😬 Yet, it was such an emotional sight to see so many people of all ages, races and genders coming together to exercise their right to free speech.  No matter which side of this contentious issue you are on, to be able to band together with others to express how you feel is still an important and powerful practice within our culture.  And we did later verify that no notable foul play occurred during or after this march, according to the local news.

I really did not think visiting DC would be as impactful as it was.  The sheer vastness of the National Mall and surrounding historic sites, the amount of information you can learn about so many aspects of our culture and history, and the meaning behind the sculptures, art and architecture I saw moved me in ways I didn’t know it could until I saw them in person.  Now knowing this, if you like to take your time wandering the museums, learning and seeing new wonders, I recommend taking at least a week to do so.  Two days was simply not enough time, but I’m still thankful we saw what we did when we did.  Now onto another place with a lot of history: Pennsylvania!  I will share more on our visits to Gettysburg, Philadelphia and the surrounding areas soon.

An hour north of Charlottesville is where we headed for our first visit to Shenandoah National Park (SNP) to hike up Old Rag Mountain.  We visited once more for a short backpacking trip.  Shenandoah National Park was was established in 1925 and opened in 1936, is known for its Skyline Drive, over 100 miles of the Appalachian trail that runs through its boundaries, its beautiful Blue Ridge mountains, and several scenic waterfalls.  Many come here to drive or bike along Skyline, hike, or camp and enjoy the natural beauty that the Appalachian mountains has to offer.

Old Rag Mountain

This hike is definitely one of the more challenging ones we have done, at roughly 9.5 miles long, over 2600 feet of elevation gain, and about a mile of clamoring through boulders to get to the top.  Yet, it was one of the most enjoyable and rewarding hikes we have ever done.  Rag Mountain is one of the most popular hikes in SNP, and requires an additional day pass (it’s only $1) in order to limit the number of people that can access the trail, which was wonderful, likely for all involved. 

Because it’s early May, violets, trillium, wild geraniums and chickweed blooms dotted the trailside, and the views you get as you reach the false summit and beyond are breathtaking and expansive.  Getting through the boulder section near the top of the climb was also really fun and made the hike a lot more interesting than most.  It wasn’t nearly as scary as some make it out to be, and I’m a bit of a scaredy cat when it comes of hikes and potential falls, so that’s saying something.  Top this off with the fact that the weather was perfect and the trail wasn’t overcrowded, and it made for a memorable and positive experience.  I would definitely come back to visit and highly recommend this hike if you are looking for a little bit of a challenge.

Backpacking in Shenandoah’s North District

I was determined to go backpacking during our time here, because it’s spring and we may not get a chance again for a while.  The north and south districts of Shenandoah National Park (SNP) aren’t as popular as the central district, so we decided to try this loop for a quick 2-nighter.  The weather was not being cooperative, so we were trying to find a window to make this happen without getting caught in a thunderstorm, and shortened the route slightly by parking at Mathews Arm Campground to cut out the Appalachian trail portion.  We hiked in on a Wednesday and left it open to either push it and hike out Thursday or take it easy and hike out early Friday.  

As we were arriving, a short rain shower commenced, so we hung out in the truck, ate our lunch and waited until it had passed.  The sun was out soon afterward and we began our trek.  Having just rained, we saw lots of little creatures on the trail, including toads, a newt, several millipedes, garter snakes, and Matt even saw a salamander. The trails were a bit flooded, but otherwise seemed to be in good condition and soon enough we were at the largest falls in Virginia: Overall Run Falls.  At over 80 feet, the falls this time of year are grandiose.  Where you can see the falls there are also expansive views of the valley below and the Blue Ridge Mountains in the background.  If you want a picturesque day hike, this is it. 

We saw three couples near the falls, and pressed on into the valley basin.  Next up were some rather precipitous switchbacks that were wet, muddy, and rocky, which meant we had to be very deliberate about our foot steps.  We finally made it to the bottom and thought the rest would be pretty easy.  Wrong, wrong, and wrong.  Had I known what we were in for, I may have stopped at one of the two campsites we saw just below the falls.  Most of the trails in the basin were flooded and had also become contributories to the river runs.  If that weren’t bad enough, there are no bridges to cross the river runs, and they were running high with strong currents this time of year.  We managed to find a precarious impromptu log bridge at the first crossing of Overall Run, but then had to bush whack through areas filled with poison ivy and ticks to try and find options to cross Overall Run again.  We didn’t find anything.

We were about to abort, but I decided to try going barefoot with my pant legs hiked up high to attempt a crossing.  It worked, but the current was indeed strong and I was up to my knees in water.  We both managed to make it across, and thankfully didn’t have to do anymore major crossings that night.  We found a lovely campsite, the sun came out, and we had a really relaxing evening, especially knowing we had the whole place to ourselves. 🏕

Given the impending rain forecasted to start early on Friday, and having seen how flooded everything was already, we chose to hike back out on Thursday so that our 2400-foot elevation gain would not be made more miserable by being soaking wet on top of it.  We had made a game plan for the next Overall Run river crossing with another impromptu log bridge we found, but this run had split into two sections, and the next crossing had nothing to offer.  So, we got resourceful and built our own log bridge with what we could find lying around near the water.  It worked and we made it across! 😀

We knew we had at least two more major river run crossings, but the next one called Keyser Run turned out to be smaller and easily managed.  At this point, we thought we were home free, but the last crossing of Compton Run turned out to be another challenging one.  We built another log bridge and made it across.  Phew!  Now we just had to finish hauling our butts up the mountain.  We saw a solitary man heading down, but no one else.  After finally making it back up, we were thankful to have finished.  I would not do this hike again unless it was much later in the season when the river runs die down and the crossings are not an issue.  I can tell that these trails do not get a lot of use or are as well maintained after you pass the popular Overall Run Falls.  

If you’re looking for solitude, you can get that in spades here, but make sure to bring bug spray, wear long pants because of ticks and poison ivy, wear shoes with water proofing material, and be prepared to get wet crossing rivers in the water or to build your own crossings.  If you don’t like that much of an adventure, camping near Overall Run Falls is an option.  Otherwise, something closer to the central Shenandoah NP region may be better maintained, and also have more people frequenting the trails.  

After hiking back out, we stopped at the Headmaster’s Pub in Sperryville on our way back to get a well-deserved beer and lunch.  This establishment has a large outdoor patio and adjoining game room as well as the main bar area with booths.  I ate their reuben with fries and Matt got their Headmaster burger.  We always like to get a burger and a beer after backpacking, and this was just what we were looking for. 👍

Our time in Shenandoah was not extensive, but there were several incredible views from Skyline, and plenty of areas to explore that weren’t overly crowded (at least in the springtime).  If you love those mountainous views and don’t mind some more rugged trails, this area is beautiful and provides some rewarding hikes.  

The journey from Roanoke to Charlottesville was one of the most stunning of our travels thus far.  There were so many expansive views of the mountains and farmlands, and the spring buds and blooms made for an array of color among the trees, from white and pink flowers, to red, orange and yellow seed wings and pods, to the spectrum of green leaves starting to grow.  

Charlottesville is a smaller-sized college town, also called C-ville, and is home to Thomas Jefferson, the University of Virginia, and was where Dave Matthews Band got their start.  We found this city to be well maintained, cyclist- and pedestrian-friendly, and a great place to enjoy music, their notable food scene, and several wineries and breweries.  Furthermore, C-ville is just south of the Shenandoah National Park and the Blue Ridge Parkway, making it popular with outdoor enthusiasts.

Charlottesville KOA

The Charlottesville KOA lives up to its reputation as far as having newly renovated facilities.  The bathrooms and showers were some of the nicest and cleanest I’ve seen on our journeys.  They also have a game room with air hockey, pool, pinball and more.  At the back of that same facility there is a laundry room.  For the first time in a long time, all of the machines were functioning, clean and affordable, so I was grateful for this.  I have already had to do laundry three times because of our excursions in Shenandoah National Park, and will likely do more before we leave. 

This is a small park located about 15 minutes from downtown Charlottesville, yet far enough away that it is very peaceful.  There is a play area for children near the front office as well.  The road to get to the campground is a bit narrow and winding, but totally doable.  I have seen very large rigs pull in here without issues.  For a peaceful stay and decent facilities, this place gets an A+ in my book. 👍

There is also a small trail that surrounds part of the grounds where you can go walking and check out a small pond on the property.  If you are looking for a place to stretch your legs a little more, Walnut Creek Park is just 5 minutes away, which provides access to a lake as well as hiking and biking trails.  We hiked the Wilkins Way Loop.  The only annoyance was a pair of geese on the lake that would not stop honking. Quiet down!  We’re trying to hike here! 😂

Activities

Monticello Grounds and Saunders-Monticello Trail

If there is one thing that is big in the Charlottesville area, it’s Thomas Jefferson.  So much revolves around this guy, between his plantation located near town, and the obvious facts that he was the principal author of the Declaration of Independence, and our third president.  He also founded the University of Virginia and donated most of his remaining library to the university after his death.  

The Monticello grounds are where Jefferson’s home, gardens, both free workers and slave quarters, stables and family cemetery reside to this day.  We toured his home, which was okay, but you are kind of herded through and it’s difficult to really roam freely and space yourself apart from other people.  You only get to see the first floor and cannot view the second or third floors that I’m aware of.  

One of the highlights for me included his polygraph.  By using just one pen the polygraph was used to write two letters…not what I was expecting!  Furthermore, for a man who was 6’ 2”, his bed was really small.  It was only 6’ 3” long, so no stretching room.  And finally, the fireplace in the sitting room had a wine dumbwaiter built into it that allowed wine to be sent up from the cellar through a pully system.  I guess he really liked having his wine handy. 🍷

In the bottom level are the kitchen, privies, wine and beer cellars, pantry, and the primary cook’s quarters. The kitchen is very large, even by today’s standards, with the most state-of-the-art equipment of its time.  The burners are squares on which the pots would be placed and heated by coal underneath.  Furthermore, we learned that Jefferson’s chefs were trained in the art of French cooking, which he and his wife preferred.

The non-profit running the tours have also embraced Jefferson’s darker history, acknowledging that he owned 600 slaves and freed very few of them in his lifetime.  They have dedicated quite a bit of the discussion to Sally Hemings, with whom he enslaved but also fathered several children.  They do not skirt around the fact that her agreement to return to Virginia from France (where she would be free), was likely due to the fact that she was already pregnant with his child, and that she may have only agreed because he vowed to free her children when they turned 21 years old, which he did indeed do. 

Near the Monticello grounds is Kemper Park, an 89-acre preserve that has a network of trails, including the primary Saunders-Monticello Trail.  We enjoyed hiking up to the highest point in the park, traversing the multitude of grand boardwalks, and taking in the breathtaking views as you approach the Monticello Visitor Center.  We also grabbed a quick bite to eat at the cafe within the visitor center and relaxed on their outdoor deck.  All in all, it’s a beautiful area, well taken care of, and a relaxing way to take in the scenery, get fresh air, and learn some history.

Ragged Mountain Nature Area (Charlottesville Reservoir)

We had a last minute change of plans, and with gorgeous weather afoot we hiked the trails in the Ragged Mountain Nature Area around the Charlottesville Reservoir.  Albeit a narrow road to get here, there is ample parking at the trailhead.  The trails are shared with bikers, so stay alert, but any bikers we saw were friendly and considerate.  

The hike starts out with a real calf burner, but you quickly reach the reservoir and the rest of the hike is more gently undulating until the end.  You have the option to hike up to the highest point called Round Top if you’re looking for a little extra cardio, but there aren’t any views to speak of.  The hike out is a short, steep downhill, the same as the start.  The views of the reservoir were gorgeous, and with temperatures increasing, we saw quite a few little critters on our hike.  Tree frogs, toads, a small wormsnake, dragonflies, grasshoppers, butterflies, and bees were all active along the trail.  I also saw a family of geese in the water…it’s always neat to see the little goslings this time of year.  

Most of the trail systems are well maintained with adequate signage and are mostly shaded, making it a great place to go on a hot day.  We had a great time, would come back and highly recommend it.  👍👍

Leon Bridges Concert at the Ting Pavilion

We are often looking for music shows to attend, and it is one of the events we missed most when the pandemic shut everything down.  At first, we thought the Ting Pavilion would be too large of a venue to really enjoy a concert there, but when we approached it while walking along C-ville’s Downtown Mall, we discovered it wasn’t that big after all, with a capacity of 3500 people.  Leon Bridges was performing during our time in C-ville, so we splurged on some general admission tickets to see him perform.  

The place filled up pretty quickly, but we found spots on the lawn toward the very back and set up our chairs.  This turned out to be a great idea, because we had more space from our neighbors, so I didn’t feel too anxious.  I get claustrophobic in crowds, especially with the continued unpredictability of covid outbreaks.  I wore a mask when having to snake my way through crowds and in the bathrooms, but otherwise felt comfortable without it.

The weather was about as perfect as we could have asked for in the low 70’s with a slight breeze and clear skies.  The show was relaxed at first while Leon showcased his new album: Gold-Diggers Sound.  However, it picked up toward the end as he played popular hits from his first and second albums.  It was also a lot of fun seeing people of all ages enjoying the show, including these two little boys in front of us acting so silly. 🤪 All in all, it was a perfect night out, and a wonderful way to cap off our stay in Charlottesville. 🎶 💗

Eating Out

I happened upon an article in which Food and Wine listed Charlottesville as one of the Small Cities with Big Food Scenes (list shown after the big cities in the linked post) and I can see why.  We enjoyed everything we tasted while out and about.  One of the restaurants in the Downtown Mall we dined at was Petit Pois, a farm to table French restaurant.  Matt had the classic coq au vin, and it tasted incredible.  I had their crab cake with spinach and creamed corn, which didn’t have the depth of flavor that the coq au vin offered, but was just what I needed for a light lunch.

A few blocks away from the Downtown Mall we had lunch at the Sultan Kebab, a Turkish restaurant.  They have a large, shaded patio, but eating indoors is also great since they have large windows that let in a lot of light.  Not only was their food flavorful and service excellent, but they had some of the cleanest bathrooms I have experienced. 🧼 We also had dinner at nearby Orzo, a Mediterranean restaurant.  They serve one of my favorite appetizers: muhammara, a dip blended from roasted red peppers, walnuts and pomegranate molasses.  It is mostly tangy, but also offers a hint of sweetness and texture from the nuts. 😋 For a main course, Matt had bolognese and I had their fresh fish of the day, and both dishes hit the spot.  

A little farther away is a fancy food court called the Dairy Market Charlottesville.  We stopped by here after hiking up Rag Mountain in the Shenandoah National Park on a hot, sunny day. After doing a big hike, we love to indulge and get a burger and a beer, so we ended up ordering chicken sandwiches from Citizen Burger and getting a cool, refreshing beer at the Starr Hill Brewery.  Both were on point, satisfying our craving, and introducing us to this lovely market.

Finally, west of Charlottesville are a plethora of wineries and breweries, so we drove out to Afton and stopped at Blue Mountain Brewery for lunch and a drink. I haven’t had a chili cheese dog in a long time, and Matt is always a fan of nachos, and both worked well with their Kolsh and Gose beers.  This brewery has extensive outside seating, beautiful  mountain views and features live entertainment every Friday on their outdoor stage.

Charlottesville offers a lot for a smaller city: a top-notch education at University of Virginia, a great food scene, wineries and breweries, a clean, safe city center to walk and bike, plenty of live music options, and access to nearby wine country and the Shenandoah National Park.  We loved our visit here and think you will too.  💗

We were so fortunate that the weather was cooperative for our journeys into and out of Roanoke, Virginia, because the two full days we spent there we had thunderstorms and high winds, which would have made for some rough travels days. 😩 Our time here was fleeting, but we made the most of it despite the unpredictable weather.  This city used to be called the Big Lick before being renamed Roanoke.  It has now adopted the nickname the “Star City of the South” because it is home to the largest freestanding illuminated star in the world. ⭐️

Explore Park

This county park turned out to be a great find if you can do without full hookups for a few days.  We stayed in the first loop, which had electric-only hookup sites, yurts and cabins, but they also have tent camping (glamping with tents already set up) and primitive camping (you bring your own tent 😉).  There are a bunch of hiking and mountain biking trails, a couple of disc golf courses, ziplines, a brew pub on site that is open on the weekends, and river access.  

Getting here was a little confusing coming up Highway 220 from the south due to road closures on the Blue Ridge Parkway, but the section between Highway 220 and the campground access off of the Blue Ridge Parkway is indeed open.  The only other things to be aware of are deer ticks, which we saw while camping there.  Make sure you wear long pants and socks and deet or similar insect repellent to protect yourself from tick-borne diseases.  Further, you must pick up your welcome packet just outside the visitor center if you want bathroom/shower code access and Explore Park’s detailed maps.

We liked this location because it was clean, quiet, located right off of the Blue Ridge Parkway, just 10 minutes from downtown Roanoke, and the facilities were really well maintained.  I also loved the extensive trail systems, which were well marked, and the historic buildings on the park grounds between the visitor center and the river.  It was such a peaceful stay that we appreciated and needed at that time in our journey. 😌

Blue Ridge Parkway

We had been warned that the Blue Ridge Parkway (BRP) can be very busy and even dangerous for cyclists, especially on the weekends.  As it turns out, we were presented with a golden opportunity to have an extremely safe experience biking along the Blue Ridge Parkway right from our campground! 🚴‍♂️ There were road closures both just east of the turn off to the campground and just west of the entrance off of Highway 220 that intersects the BRP north/south.  This afforded us a 16-mile round trip with only local traffic driving through, or about a half dozen cars in total.

It was a very gusty day, so the ride along the connecting Roanoke River Parkway was challenging, but the views atop the overlook on this road were worth the effort.  Thankfully, most of the bike ride along the BRP was sheltered from the wind, so we simply enjoyed the scenery and relaxed on this picturesque ride.  It looked like there were other roads closed to traffic that connected with the BRP I could possibly explore; however, we weren’t staying in the area long enough to do so. 

Downtown Roanoke

Downtown Roanoke is only about 10 minutes away from the campground, so we went there to pick up groceries and sight see.  After grocery shopping on the second evening, we were tired and hungry!  We decided to get dinner instead of cooking, and there happened to be a restaurant in the mall next to us called the Wildflour Cafe.  We were pleasantly surprised at how delicious the food was.  I had salmon cakes and a salad, and Matt had a quesadilla and a salad.  Everything was seasoned well and the portions were just right.  We may have been the youngest people in this place, but I do recommend this cafe. 😂

On the second day we went to The Green Goat for lunch, located in Wasena Park along the Roanoke River and Greenway.  The food was just ok, but the service was excellent.  They have an outside patio that overlooks the park as well, but it was too windy for us to enjoy on this particular day.  After lunch we meandered along the greenway for a few miles and encountered a small sculpture garden created as a Memorial to Ann Davey Masters, who was involved in environmental initiatives and was also passionate about the arts.

 Albeit a short stay, we made the most of our time in Roanoke and loved the park where we stayed because it was quiet, scenic, and conveniently located next to trails, the Blue Ridge Parkway and close to downtown Roanoke.  Off we go on our journey through the Northeast.  Our next stop is Charlottesville and the Shenandoah National Park.  

Along with the great resignation, many people have also uprooted their lives like us or considered moving to another area in the country for a variety of reasons.  If you are one of many moving from west to east and are considering the Carolinas, you might be wondering what makes them similar and where they differ.  Depending on your values, goals and what stage of life you are in at the moment, one state might rise above the other or pique your interest for greater consideration. 

If you base your decision solely on statistics, North Carolina looks like a clear winner in so many ways.  They have more moderate climate, more public land access and parks, greater educational opportunities that are more affordable, and in some cases game changing, and lower crime.  Granted, South Carolina has just 60% of the land area compared to North Carolina, so it makes sense that North Carolina would have more public land and schools. However, three of North Carolina’s universities offer a $500 promise, in which you pay only $500 per semester in tuition.  This is a great opportunity that can make higher education more accessible and reduce student debt.

Both states have similar geography, being more mountainous in the west, hilly in the central region and having hot, humid lowlands along the coast.  If scuba diving is important to you, it might be of interest to know that North Carolina’s outer banks and barrier islands are home to a ship graveyard where 1000’s of ships have sunk and can be explored.  But if low country food is more important, then visiting South Carolina’s historic Charleston might entice you to stay.  If you are like me and gravitate toward the mountains, North Carolina may be more attractive, especially considering it is home to the highest point of elevation east of the Mississippi: Mount Mitchell, elevation 6684 feet.  Also unique to North Carolina is that it shares portions of the Blue Ridge Parkway and the Great Smoky Mountains with its bordering states.

When it comes to job opportunities, median income, taxes, unemployment, and cost of living, both states are fairly close across the board. However, North Carolina is known for being one of the top 10 places in the nation in the areas of science, technology, engineering and math (STEM).  Both states have a large industry focus on farming and manufacturing, but South Carolina has manufacturing plants for Boeing and Michelin, and a strong tourism presence, especially in Charleston and Myrtle Beach.  And though overall cost of living is comparable, South Carolina’s housing costs are nearly 12% lower than North Carolina, which is a big deal for nearly everyone.  

Politically speaking, both North and South Carolina have an interesting history.  They were predominantly Democratic-leaning states from the late 1800’s through the 1960’s, at which point both states shifted to a Republican-leaning voting record. However, North Carolina as a state elected a Democratic president twice since the 1960’s, in both 1976 and 2008.  If voting rights are more important to you, North Carolina has no-excuse absentee voting, whereas South Carolina does not.  It may go without saying, but looking at the voting record of a specific city and county can tell you a lot more about that area than just looking at the entire state.  I use Best Places to review this information.  

All that being said, it really comes down to where you feel most comfortable.  We have done our best to spend time in specific communities, meet people in the area and hear their perspectives.  It’s especially interesting to find out either why someone has moved there from somewhere else in the country and what keeps them there, or find out why someone stayed if they grew up there.  For us, educational opportunities, ample and affordable housing, a plenitude of job opportunities, access to the outdoors and bike- and pedestrian-friendly spaces are important.  Seeing places that have and continue to invest in these areas show the most promise, and we have repeatedly seen that college towns often fit the bill for our needs.

Explore, meet people, ask questions, and listen to your instincts.  Which place seems more like home to you?  Why do you feel that way?  Could you see yourself living there or just visiting?  How sustainable is the area to live both from a cost of living standpoint and having access to jobs and education, but also provides quality of life?  Statistics alone could steer you in a particular direction, but leave you feeling ill at ease and disinclined to actually want to live there.  Regardless of whether you’re moving a few hours away or across the country, it’s a big decision, and having a balance between practical and idealistic reasons behind your choice will help you make sure it works out for the best.  Good luck and happy travels.  

Although Asheville gets most of the attention in Western North Carolina, there are so many sweet little towns nearby that we think you would enjoy visiting just as much.  Here is a sampling of our adventures in the areas surrounding Asheville that we truly loved and would go back and visit again.

East of Asheville

We stayed in Swannanoa, which is just east of Asheville, and the town next door is called Black Mountain.  This community has a walkable town center and a lot of interesting shops.  We had dinner at the Trailhead Restaurant and Bar, which has both indoor and patio seating.  I had their trout filet and Matt had their tuna filet.  Though I loved the flavors of my dish, the plate it was served on was way too small, so it was messy.  Matt had a larger plate for a much smaller portion of food and he thought the flavors were just okay, so it was a bit of a mixed bag. However, they do have a decent tap list.

East of Black Mountain is the town of Montreat, which is home to the private, Christian Montreat College and also has an extensive trail system.  We did an ambitious hike up Lookout and Brushy Mountains, that included summits at Lookout Mountain, Boggs Bunion, Brushy Mountain, and Rocky Head. 🥵 It was really steep in sections to the point that I was using tree trunks to pull myself up. 😂 The views were breathtaking, spring blooms abounded, and we had the trail mostly to ourselves.  We could not have asked for a more perfect day weather-wise and really enjoyed this hike overall despite how strenuous it was.  There are other less strenuous hikes nearby, so come and enjoy!

One of the towns we had been wanting to check out while in the area is called Boone.  Michelle, whom we met earlier in our stay, had also recommended we check out Roan Mountain.  It seemed to be an ambitious day to both hike Roan Mountain and travel to Boone, but we made it happen! 😜 The long, steep, and winding drive to Roan Mountain and Carvers Gap takes you all the way to the North Carolina/Tennessee border.  And just an FYI that there is a bathroom at the trailhead, but it is really disgusting, with poo and pee all over the seat and floor and no toilet paper. 🤢 As such, plan accordingly. 

That being said, the hike was awesome.  We hiked Carvers Gap to Grassy Ridge Bald, which is heavily trafficked, but for good reason.  The 360 degree views of the Blue Ridge Mountains are unparalleled. 😍 The elevation gain is around 1000 feet, which doesn’t seem so bad; however, you start your hike at over 5500 feet and climb to just over 6150 feet, and the winds are unrelenting for most of the way up.  Make sure you bring plenty of layers and a decent wind breaker, but be prepared to be wowed by the scenery as well. 👍

After making it back down the mountain, we drove from there to Boone, which takes you into Tennessee briefly and back over the border to North Carolina through more beautiful mountain towns.  Boone is home to Appalachian State University, is situated at an elevation of 3333 feet, and has a population of just under 20,000.  It is a cute place to visit, but parking and driving through the heart of town is challenging!  We managed to find a place for our big galoot of a truck, and ate a late lunch at the nearest establishment, because we were ravenous!

That establishment happened to be Lost Province Brewing Company.  We each asked for an 8 oz beer, but they were doing happy hour prices, so they gave us 16 oz pours for the same price. 🤷🏻‍♀️ We decided to try one of their wood fired pizzas called the Rosti.  The flavors were nice, but the speck (pork) pieces were too large. We had to break them up to make it easier to eat.  With the sun streaming in and our bellies now full, we were in a good place. 🙂

To walk off our meal and check out the main drag through town, we strolled along East King Street and picked up some coffee for the drive back.  Along our walk we saw a farmer selling fresh strawberries, and they smelled so good that I couldn’t resist picking up a quart. 🍓That turned out to be a GREAT decision! 😋 With strawberries and coffee in hand, we headed down the mountain and collapsed in a puddle of exhaustion when we got home. It was a long day, but well worth the effort. 

South of Asheville

South of Asheville is the town of Hendersonville, which is known for its annual apple festival.  Near the town is a natural area that was Carl Sandburg’s home and is now a National historic site.  We parked, and walked up the road to hike Big Glassy, Little Glassy and Memminger trails before exploring the grounds where Sandburg’s home and farmland are preserved.  Goats are still raised here, which are ever popular with the kiddos.  

The views from the top of Big Glassy are amazing, so we stopped there to eat lunch before checking out the other trails.  Eventually we walked around the property’s pond, which was chock-full of fish and circled back up to the farmland.  Afterward, we headed into Hendersonville and stopped at the 2nd Act Coffee and Bar for a coffee and an afternoon snack.  This venue has a nice atmosphere and hosts events frequently.  You can also get wine, beer or a cocktail, so you could spend all day and night there if you wanted to! ☕️ 🍻 🍷

West of Asheville

It turns out that my brother knows a few folks that moved from Minnesota to North Carolina several years ago: Mike and Carrie. My brother used to play in a band with Mike, and his partner Carrie now works for Western Carolina University (WCU), located near Sylva.  Coincidentally, I just so happened to be planning a visit to WCU during our stay to interview the head of their Environmental Health Department.  Mike and Carrie offered to meet up and show us around Sylva, Cullowhee, and Dillsboro and share their impressions.

On our way, we stopped in Waynesville for lunch at the Birchwood Hall Southern Kitchen.  Their menu piqued my interest, and the food ended up being some of the best we had in the Asheville area.  We ate so much we were busting at the seams!  Matt got their salmon dish and I had the shrimp perloo, which is similar to jambalaya, but with a sweeter and less spicy taste.  They also served up coffee from the local Smoky Mountain Coffee Roasters.  All in all, it was a satisfying meal and I HIGHLY recommend going here if you are near Waynesville. 👍 😋 

Because it takes about an hour to get from Swannanoa to Sylva, Carrie and Mike offered to put us up for the night and take us out to a show that evening.  And, they are some of the most incredible hosts. 😍 Carrie drove us over to the campus for a quick tour, then back to Sylva and we walked around the main part of this little town.  After popping into a curio shop called Snake Song, we paid $1 to become members of the Wine Bar and Cellar and have a cocktail. 😜 If your food sales don’t meet certain legal requirements, apparently an establishment can become a private club with membership and still serve liquor.  

Afterward, we all headed over to one of the local breweries called the Lazy Hiker for one of Mike and Carrie’s friend’s 50th birthday party.  Their Sylva taproom also has food, but they operate separately under the same roof, so you order beer from the bartender and food from the kitchen and pay separately.  Both the beers and food hit the spot, and Mike and Carrie’s friends were so nice and welcoming.

Finally, we walked across the street to Nantahala Brewing to see some more of their friends play music in a cover band called the Shrubberies.  Nantahala is right on the Scott Creek with a large outdoor deck. It also looks like they have an outdoor bar opening soon.  They have good beer and the band was awesome!  Many of Mike and Carrie’s friends moseyed over from the Lazy Hiker and many were dancing and whooping it up. I haven’t danced and stayed out that late in a while!  Needless to say, we had a great time. 🍺 💃🏻

Mike and Carrie even made us breakfast the next morning and we had fun playing with their cute pups Freddie and Frida, some of the sweetest dogs I’ve ever met.  We also found out that Mike was playing at an after party the following weekend, so we decided to come back.  

Two days later, I came back on a rainy day to meet up with the associate professor at WCU, but got my appointment time mixed up.  I thought it was at 10am and instead it was at 1pm.  Oops. 😳 So, we drove to Sylva and had brunch at Lucy in the Rye.  Carrie told me they are the ONLY brunch option in Sylva, but regardless the food was flavorful and the service was excellent.  I would go back there again, for sure.   

The following weekend, with strawberry shortcake in hand as my thank you to Mike and Carrie for going above and beyond to host us, we headed back to Sylva.  There is an annual heritage arts festival there called Greening up the Mountain, and the locals had an after party that was being hosted in the town right next door, called Dillsboro.

We relaxed with Carrie for a little while, then headed into Dillsboro to Quirky Birds Treehouse and Bistro to see the first band perform, called Panthertown, which has a southern rock vibe.  Next, we went across the street to Innovation Brewing’s Dillsboro taproom to see the second act play, a blue grass band called Ol’ Dirty Bathtub, and enjoy the afternoon sun. 🌞. Finally, we walked back to Quirky Birds to see Mike’s band called Prophets of Time.  The place filled up quickly and everyone was having such a good time. 😀 There was one more band, but we were knackered and headed back for the night.

After another incredible breakfast we said our goodbyes and headed back to our rig.  We can’t thank Mike and Carrie enough for their hospitality and kindness.  They are truly wonderful people, introduced us to even more wonderful people that live there and have given us a little taste of what life would be like if we were to move out that way. 💞

I hope sharing our adventures gives you a small slice of what there is to see in Western North Carolina.  If visiting small little mountains towns is a favorite pastime of yours, there is an endless supply out here that could keep you busy for years to come.  It is a beautiful part of the country, and regardless of whether we end up living here, we will be back to visit.  Come see for yourself what all the fuss is about. ⛰

Back in 2014 Matt and I traveled to Asheville, and we loved it so much that we almost moved there.  However, the job market was tough, so I ended up getting a job in Portland instead, and that is where we have been for the past 6 years. Now we have come full circle and are reconsidering this area as a potential place to call home.  What drew us here to begin with was its proximity to the mountains, the social culture, music, and plethora of breweries either already in business or under construction.  Now it was time to take another look and see what had changed, what had stayed the same and to explore the communities around Asheville.

Murphy/Peace Valley KOA

After visiting folks in Alabama, we were northbound yet again, this time heading to Western North Carolina.  To break up the journey we stopped off at the Murphy/Peace Valley KOA, which is right over the border from Tennessee.  This is a smaller KOA, and since you drop down from the main road, it’s fairly quiet.

I took advantage of their clean laundry facilities, which were right across from us with a play area in between.  I’m not sure how great it would be for a longer stay, but for an overnight it worked for us.  There are white water rafting opportunities in the area, so this might be a decent jumping off place for you.

Asheville East KOA in Swannanoa

We didn’t have a lot of choices for a close-in stay to Asheville, but there are two KOA’s, one west and one east of Asheville.  The reviews seemed fairly even, so we picked the Asheville East KOA in Swannanoa because it would shorten our trek to our next destination in Virginia.  

We stayed at the first loop near the river, which is to your left as you head into the campground.  It was pretty packed most of the time we were there since it was close to the river and had full hookups.  There are also ponds on the property with tent or partial hookup sites available that have beautiful pond views.  You can also rent kayaks and take them out on the water.  

The laundry facilities were ok, but there were several machines out of order and the dryers are outside, so if it’s cold, it may not be much fun transporting laundry from the laundry room to the dryers.  The campsite is located right off of highway 70, so between frequent traffic and trains nearby it was pretty loud and we didn’t find any location in the campground where you could escape that noise.  However, we enjoyed wandering around the ponds, the KOA’s convenient location and even had a delightful time talking with the neighbors who rolled in on our final night there.  

Mike and Cindy have been RVing for years, and Cindy’s brother Johnny and his wife Lynn were first timers joining them on this trip, all hailing from North Carolina.  We even discovered a little known fact from Mike that the town of Mayberry on the Andy Griffith Show was based on Mount Airy, North Carolina, and Mike often dresses up as the Sheriff and performs wedding ceremonies in the jail there for fans of the show. 😂

Similar to our experience in Savannah, Georgia, we weren’t surprised that a conveniently located RV park was a bit loud and crowded, but it served its purpose and we did get to meet some nice people.  The park did host some fun Easter events for the kiddos and was well-staffed.  If you’re looking for peace and quiet, search elsewhere, but for convenience and keeping your kids entertained, this place worked well for us.

The North Carolina Arboretum

Just off the Blue Ridge Parkway is The North Carolina Arboretum.  Access for standard vehicles is $16, which may seem a bit steep, but the grounds are extensive.  Alternatively, you could walk or bike in for free.  If you live in the area, consider getting a membership as there is more to see than one day would allow.  There are about 10 miles of hiking trails and just under 5 miles of biking trails in addition to their gardens and exhibits.  We walked along the Natural Garden Trail and went to an azalea garden as we circled back.  Not many azaleas were in bloom yet, but I bet they look amazing in May.  

We walked up to the Forest Meadow and then toward the Quilt Garden where we saw a miniature railroad scene, which was really neat, especially as we watched birds hop through, looking gigantic in comparison. If you climb the steps above the Quilt Garden, there is a beautiful view of the mountains in the background.  At this point we were hot and tired, so we decided to call it a day, but would love to come back and check out more of the grounds.  

Eating & Drinking

We have made it a habit to reach out and see if friends of friends live in the area so we can get multiple perspectives on what it’s like to live in an area.  We had a lot of responses for this place in particular, so met up and discovered a variety of restaurants and breweries in the process.  Thank you to our friend and wedding photographer Olivia for introducing us to her friends Michelle and Ashley and to my cousin for sharing her dear friend Mitzi’s information. 💗

Our first meet up was with Michelle at Burial Beer Company.  Burial has four taprooms, two of which are in Asheville, and we met up at their South Slope location closer to downtown, which is a dog-friendly place.  They also have food at the taprooms and three bottling shops.  We sat out on their front patio, and got to know Michelle and her sweet dog Maya while enjoying a beautifully sunny day.  Michelle has lived in Asheville for over 10 years, and her insights were invaluable to us, not to mention the fact that she is an awesome person. 

Afterward, we headed over to Buxton Hall BBQ, which is just a few blocks away from Burial Beer’s taproom.  This place has some tasty BBQ, but also sources locally, including pastured pigs from Vandal Farms in Lake Lure, NC.  The atmosphere was buzzing with activity, and clearly shows this place’s popularity with the locals.  I indulged in both a cocktail and dessert, but in this case it was worth it. 😋 If you are a fan of BBQ and supporting local farmers, you can’t go wrong with Buxton Hall.

Our second meet up was with Ashley, her husband Travis, friend Emily and one more!  We met up in West Asheville at Haywood Common, which has an outdoor space, and a nice selection of food and drink.  With another beautiful day in Asheville, it was lovely to sit outside and enjoy it.  This group of folks lives closer to or within Waynesville, which is west of Asheville, and most of them grew up in the area.  As such, it was interesting to get their perspective on how Asheville has changed with the influx of people from all over the country.

We said our goodbyes and walked over to Westville Pub per our hosts’ recommendation as a local favorite.  However, it is probably safer to go here earlier in the night, as they have been known to have issues in this part of town late at night.  We had some decent bar food and headed back after a long day of driving around the towns west of Asheville.

For my birthday Matt surprised me with a cookbook called Cúrate that focuses on traditional Spanish tapas and other dishes.  After reviewing the book I discovered that the restaurant Cúrate is in downtown Asheville, so we booked a night during our stay. 😍 We got a table in front, and enjoyed strawberry shrub drinks and marinated olives while we perused the menu.  

This place reminded us of a series of restaurants back in Portland: Tasty and Alder, Tasty and Sons, Toro Bravo, and Mediterranean Exploration.  We had to try their octopus to compare with Tasty and Alder, and also enjoyed their croquettes, ramps with romesco sauce, garlic shrimp, patatas bravas, and lamb skewers.  So much delicious food!  

We were stuffed, so decided to walk around afterward to digest.  As we did, we opted to stop at French Broad Chocolate, which was recommended to us by Mitzi, my cousin’s close friend.   Matt picked out a milk chocolate sampler, and I chose one of their 12-piece bonbon and caramel sets.  They are delectable chocolates with creative flavors, and I recommend them. 👍

On our final day in Asheville, we wanted to return to the River Arts District (RAD) and check out the riverfront greenways that had been established since we we visited last.  This area is known as a creative hub for artists specializing in a variety of mediums.  Normally, we would peruse the shops and pick up something to support local artists and remind of our travels there, but we simply cannot collect more things while on the road.  Instead, we parked and walked over to Summit Coffee Co. so Matt could pick up a mocha for our stroll.  This coffee shop is a cute space, but the prices were pretty steep compared to other coffee places in the area.

We walked along the Wilma Dykeman Greenway and across the river to the French Broad River Park.  The greenway is pretty short right now, but there are intentions of expanding it.  Crossing the bridge to get to the park was a little precarious, because there is only one single file sidewalk and we had to navigate pedestrians coming the other way so we could all stay out of traffic.  The park is small and seems to be under construction in sections, but it is a good place to relax near the river, take advantage of the dog run or find a shady picnic bench.  

Afterward, we had one more lunch at Taco Billy.  They have some creative flavor combos and a nice outside patio in the back.  And, there is plenty of creative art inside as well.  On one of the hottest days during our stay, walking around and eating lunch outside on a patio was a perfect way to cap off our time in Asheville.

Asheville has its challenges, space being one of them.  Expanding infrastructure is challenging since it is in such a mountainous area, so things like parks, bike lanes and public access are not readily available compared to other cities.  Since space is at a premium, growth is limited, which means the population remains small, but that also means there is less access to local jobs, and cost of living is higher.  If you can’t get remote work, you may struggle to keep expenses down in Asheville and maintain quality of life.  

All that being said, there is so much more to share about the surrounding areas, which I will do in my next post to give you a better picture of this mountainous region in Western North Carolina.  If you love the mountains, breweries, good food, and getting outdoors, this truly is a wonderful place to come and experience all of these delights and more. ⛰

With spring vegetables in season, I am taking advantage where I can to transition our meals from winter veg to the fresh and fleeting offerings from this time of year, including peas, dill, and asparagus.  Check out some of the dishes I had fun making over the past month.

Pork chop with cauliflower and Brussels sprouts

Matt bought a few large pork chops a while back and we had one remaining, so he brined it overnight, sautéed it and then finished the chop in the oven.  After cutting the meat off the bone, we split the portions and it was great! 😃 To complement the chop, I wanted a veg dish.  Matt got me a new cookbook for my birthday called Cúrate by chef Katie Button, a Spanish tapas-inspired book.  It turns out that she has a restaurant in Asheville, North Carolina, so we booked a reservation during our stay there.  

From this cookbook, I made a cauliflower and Brussels sprouts side dish that incorporates bread crumbs and flame raisins.  I couldn’t find flame raisins and had dried currants on hand, so I used those instead.  I also could not find a baguette, so I found a small sandwich loaf and let it dry out for a few days before slicing it and frying up the little cubes of bread.  In our little trailer oven I had two small jelly roll pans, one with cauliflower and the other with Brussels sprouts that I alternated between the oven rack and the bottom of the oven.  On the bottom, the veg is exposed to more of the flame like a broiler, so it helped brown and finish off the veggies before I dressed them with the currants, bread cubes, garlic, and lemon zest.  It was a great addition to the meal and we were very happy with how it all turned out.

Brothy meatballs with peas, fennel and fregola

A spring-inspired recipe we found on the Bon Appetit web site had a nice mixture of meatballs, spring cultivars like peas and dill, toothsome fregola pasta (pearl couscous), and a delicious broth to tie it all together.  

The binder used for the meatballs is Greek yogurt, which isn’t great for binding, but will work if you are careful with the meatballs when browning them.  I couldn’t find pea shoots (where do you get these if you don’t grow them yourself?!?), so I substituted arugula instead since I love its peppery flavor and delicate yet sturdy texture.  The salad you dress the dish with at the end incorporates dill and fresh fennel as well.  I couldn’t find fresh dill, so I used dill weed, and in addition to vinegar, I finished it off with a little drizzle of olive oil so it had a true vinaigrette.  

This recipe has a lot of layers and deep flavors that develop over time, so it’s a great dish to have as leftovers.  I kept the couscous (fregola) separate from the salad and from the mixture of broth, meatballs and cooked vegetables.  Although it can be a little time consuming with multiple components to the dish, it wasn’t a particularly arduous recipe, so I would recommend it if you have a few hours to spare for a kitchen project.  You will be rewarded for your efforts.  😋

Lentil bolognese

I had some rotelle (wagon wheel) pasta to use up, and am always looking for new and interesting ways to incorporate lentils into our diet, because they are packed with nutrients.  This lentil bolognese recipe has just a hint of spice, an allium base and small amount of pancetta and wine add a depth of flavor.  The dish can easily be made vegetarian if you exclude the pancetta.  The overall dish turned out wonderfully, with balanced texture and  flavors.  If you are new to cooking lentils or looking for some variety, or perhaps looking for a different take on bolognese, try this recipe and let me know what you think.

Roasted Salmon with dilly greens, asparagus, and potatoes

We have made it known that we are big fans of salmon, and with spring having sprung, we couldn’t wait to take advantage of some more spring vegetable favorites.  In this case, asparagus and dill are our inspiration for this dish.  I did substitute raw bell pepper for the jar of roasted bell peppers, and couldn’t find escarole, so used another crisp and slightly curly green instead.  Finally, I didn’t have fresh oregano, so I quartered the required amount and substituted dried oregano.  

While roasting the salmon and bell pepper in the oven, I steamed the potatoes, which took a bit longer since I don’t have a proper steamer.  I have a metal strainer that I place in the top of a pot and then trap most of the escaping steam with the pot cover.  Because my steaming vessel was small, I chopped up the asparagus to fit in the metal strainer and it took hardly any time to cook compared to the potatoes.  

While the potatoes and asparagus were steaming, I dressed the salad greens so the flavors had time to blend.  Once cooled, I pulled apart big chunks of salmon, and added all of the components for the full spectrum of flavor and texture.  It is a superb dish for a warm spring day, to sit outside and enjoy the last rays of sunshine or perhaps take to a picnic in the park.  Happy spring everyone! 🌷

Shrimp with slaw, farro and gochujang mayo

I love farro and gochujang, needed to use up some shredded cabbage and was interested in attempting a new way to pan fry shrimp, hence this recipe.  I am not always a big fan of shrimp because they are often overcooked, so thought this recipe might lend itself to a crispy-fried finish and keep the shrimp a little more tender.  It was indeed successful! 🍤 Couple this with the spicy, tangy mayo, the nutty farro and cabbage dressed in mirin wine, rice vinegar, and sesame oil, and you have myriad sensations while eating.  The textures worked well together, and if you like shrimp, this is a great way to prepare them.